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[Weekender] Satisfying sustainability: Uncovering South Korea's vegan restaurants

By Lee Jaeeun

Published : Dec. 14, 2024 - 16:01

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Choi So Han Ggi's truffle tomato gnocchi and vegetable curry. (Lee Jaeeun/The Korea Herald) Choi So Han Ggi's truffle tomato gnocchi and vegetable curry. (Lee Jaeeun/The Korea Herald)

Vegetarianism has become more prominent in recent years -- whether for ethical reasons, in pursuit of better health, animal welfare, or out of a desire to reduce one's carbon footprint for a more sustainable future, many South Koreans are joining the move as well.

That has reshaped the Korean food scene, leading to a surge in innovative vegan restaurants.

According to the Korea Vegan Union, the number of vegans in South Korea has increased more than tenfold over the past decade, reaching 2 million as of 2022. This figure encompasses not only strict vegans who avoid all kinds of animal-derived products including eggs, dairy and honey, but also flexitarians -- individuals who prioritize plant-based eating while occasionally incorporating animal products.

Research conducted by Hankook Research in June showed that 18 percent of South Korean adults identified themselves as either vegetarian or vegetarian-aspiring, an approximate 2 percentage point increase from 2023.

Health management was the most prominent reason -- cited by 83 percent of the respondents -- for adopting plant-based eating. Other reasons included improved digestion, better looks such as weight loss and glowy skin, environmental concerns and animal rights protection.

The growing interest in plant-based food has sparked the birth of new vegan restaurants across Korea, many of which are operated by prominent South Korean food conglomerates. This new wave offers a range of innovative dishes that appeal to both strict vegans and curious diners.

Plantude's gosari oil pasta and crispy tofu mushroom gangjeong. (Lee Jaeeun/The Korea Herald) Plantude's gosari oil pasta and crispy tofu mushroom gangjeong. (Lee Jaeeun/The Korea Herald)

Pulmuone’s Plantude

One standout is Plantude, a vegan restaurant operated by South Korean food company Pulmuone Food and Culture. After opening its flagship location at COEX Mall in Gangnam, Seoul, in 2022, Plantude became the first restaurant in Korea to receive full vegan certification from the Korea Vegan Standard Certification Institution. In one year, Plantude's first location attracted over 75,000 visitors and sold 100,000 dishes.

Plantude offers an accessible vegan dining experience with affordable menu options priced at around 15,000 won ($10). Popular dishes include gosari (bracken) oil pasta, crispy tofu mushroom gangjeong (sweet and spicy fried tofu), and tofu cutlet rice bowls. All of these dishes use 100 percent plant-based ingredients.

Based on its success, Plantude opened its second branch at IPark Mall in Yongsan, Seoul, in 2023. The third location is set to open in March 2025 at Godeok IPark The Urban Mall in Gangdong, Seoul.

Nongshim’s Forest Kitchen

Food giant Nongshim has taken a different approach with its vegan restaurant. Forest Kitchen, which opened in May 2022 at Lotte World Mall in Jamsil, Seoul, initially positioned itself as a fine-dining restaurant offering course menus. But now, Forest Kitchen caters better to consumer demand following a transformation that introduced a la carte dishes featuring plant-based sandwiches, salads and pastas. The price of each item has become more affordable as well, ranging between 10,000 and 20,000 won. With a focus on locally sourced seasonal ingredients and innovative flavors, the restaurant attracts diverse visitors, with foreign national customers accounting for 60 percent of its visitors, according to the management.

Shinsegae Food’s You Are What You Eat

Shinsegae Food’s You Are What You Eat, which opened in September 2023 at COEX Mall, focuses on creating high-quality fusion dishes that cater to various dietary preferences. It features both fully plant-based dishes, and low-carbon meals that incorporate animal-derived ingredients such as dairy or oyster sauce. Its diverse menu includes spicy caprese risotto, avocado Cobb salad and poke bowls. Prices range from 10,000 to 20,000 won.

Plantude's dishes. (Pulmuone) Plantude's dishes. (Pulmuone)

Although many of Seoul's vegan restaurants are run by food giants hoping to diversify their business portfolio, the country's plant-based dining scene has flourished in other parts of the country as well.

Notably, Michelin Bib Gourmand-recognized vegan restaurants in Busan have gained nationwide recognition.

Aside from efforts by individual restaurants, local governments in South Korea are also playing a key role in promoting vegan dining and accessibility. For instance, the Seoul Metropolitan Government offers a comprehensive map of vegan and vegetarian restaurant options via its Smart Seoul Map platform.

ARP's seaweed capellini. (Lee Jaeeun/The Korea Herald) ARP's seaweed capellini. (Lee Jaeeun/The Korea Herald)

ARP

Located in Yeongdo-gu, Busan, ARP is a vegan gem that has garnered praise for its innovative dishes like gosari pasta and chamnamul (Korean wild parsley) pesto pasta. Known for its rich, buttery flavors, ARP’s dishes surprise customers by delivering indulgent textures often thought impossible in vegan cuisine.

Love Earth

Love Earth, located in Suyeong-gu, is another one of Busan's Michelin Bib Gourmand-listed vegan restaurants. What makes this spot unique is its seasonal menu, which ensures that diners can experience something new every time they visit. From hearty vegan burgers and soups to tteokbokki and pasta, Love Earth offers a wide array of dishes that cater to a casual, everyday dining experience.

Obuthan's Korean-style bansang (Lee Jaeeun/The Korea Herald) Obuthan's Korean-style bansang (Lee Jaeeun/The Korea Herald)

Obuthan

Although you won't find Obuthan in Jung-gu, Busan, in the Michelin Bib Gourmand list, it has quickly gained popularity for its thoughtful and balanced plant-based meals. At lunchtime, it offers affordable and beautifully curated Korean-style bansang (a set meal) priced between 12,000 and 15,000 won. After personally dining here, I can say that one of the defining features of Obuthan’s lunches is that they leave you feeling both full and satisfied.

It transforms its menu to offer a selection of Western-inspired vegan dishes, paired with a curated selection of vegan wines. Their evening menu includes paprika cream sauce pasta, grilled vegetables with oil, and mugwort pound cake.

ARP's gosari pasta. (Lee Jaeeun/The Korea Herald) ARP's gosari pasta. (Lee Jaeeun/The Korea Herald)

Choi So Han Ggi

Beyond Seoul and Busan, the Jeolla Provinces -- known as South Korea’s culinary heartland -- also offer exceptional vegan dining experiences. In Mokpo, a port city in South Jeolla Province, Choi So Han Ggi -- meaning “at least one dish a day”-- stands out as a must-visit vegan restaurant. It champions the concept of a “healthy and filling vegan meal,” offering a menu that combines comfort with creativity. Signature dishes include truffle tomato gnocchi, vegan hambagu steak, and haenam cabbage oil pasta.

When The Korea Herald visited, the experience at Choi So Han Ggi far exceeded expectations, due to its creativity and flavors.